My Year of Travel 2012

I met my nephews girlfriend on Christmas Day, a really sweet little thing with a travel wish-list I could relate to. Although, it did surprise me that someone with such a passion for getting out there, has never travelled, but her opportunities have been limited for various reasons and now she is desperate to explore the world. She has thought about it over the past year and is now planning on becoming an air hostess to kick her dreams off. I listened to her plans with absolute envy. She's young enough and pretty enough and smart enough to get her wish. Free travel, and a lot of it!

Thats not to say I didn't clock up enough travel points of my own this year. My carbon footprint was shameful, and my wish to explore new places was met.

The beginning of the year I spent at home in Sydney wishing our summer wasn't being destroyed by rain and cold winds. The Year of the Dragon had started poorly, with a bland New years Eve and no solid plans to escape. 

So, we booked a month in Indonesia to find some sun and dragons. 

Landing in Bali always feels like home to me, I love the mixed smell of incense with motorbike fuel along with the sweaty heat and humidity. I also happen to love the food and the people and the dances and the sounds and the... everything! We spent a few days in a little Balinese villa I found on www.agoda.com.au which was perfect to acclimatise to the humidity and cocktails before flying off to Flores where we found a traditional boat to float us around the archipelago in search of Komodo Dragons. And dragons we found. Nothing quite prepares you for the grotesqueness of the Komodo Dragon, the grandness of the beast, the size of the toxic claws that could kill with one scratch, or the stench that follows it after feasting on a deer. They move faster than I can. That scared me and thankfully I wasn't eaten. 

Swimming and snorkelling off our boat with seahorse and manta rays kept us busy during the days, while lazing on the outdoor deck under the stars at night meant heavenly sleep. We woke to watch the sun rise over prehistoric jagged mountains and welcomed home the returning fisherman each morning. Labuan Bajo hosted some amazing restaurants with wonderful food. Hot chilli crab and chicken satays were drowned with Bintang and Tiger beer. The mountains behind the town were home to gorgeous bush walks and waterfalls where we played for hours, jumping off rocks and swimming in pristine waters. Note to self and others: do not wear white trekking pants when walking through these parts, you will inevitably slide down a portion of the mountain. Mud sticks. 

I woke to my first Muslim "call to prayer" one morning while we were moored off the tiny village of Komodo. An experience I wasn't expecting at that time of the morning, but was happy to have just the same. 

The people of Flores are extremely hospitable , a very welcoming group who take the time to talk and are genuinely interested in making sure you have a great experience. Some say this is Bali 20 years ago. I don't think so, its very different to Bali (and yes, I was there 20 years ago and almost every year since). Flores has its own flavour and is now added to my "favourites" list of places to hang out for a while. 

Before heading home we returned again to Bali and headed north to Pemuteran where we stayed for a few days contemplating never returning to Australia again. The black sands where turtles came for respite and the reefs beyond where we were stranded with pods of dolphins and more gorgeous coral sea life. We then drove our little jeep back towards Ubud before finally coming home. Long faced and slightly suntanned. (OK - more than suntanned, the skin cancer council had a lot to say about my pinkened and peeling back on my return!). 

Melbourne was my friend a couple of times for various short trips over the year. I adore this city; the culture is classy, the people are friendly and the food is amazing. And the fashion...... oh if only I were a size zero. 

The middle of my year was spent heads down and working hard and then I landed a dream position, in the travel industry! 

My first assignment was to head to London for a few weeks and try as I might to hide my excitement, I failed. I just love London, and with a few friends living there it meant the trip could be maximised for work AND play! I also decided to hang out in Paris for the weekend, something very strange as an Australian to be able to say (and I have said this every day since!)

Arriving in London at the end of October at 7am and it was pitch black. No sign of sunlight and that was exactly how it should've been. We stayed in Southwark at the Novotel which was surprisingly nice and spacious. Southwark was central to everything and the hotel only a 5 min walk to wherever I needed to be. Like the office of course, or Borough Markets or Browns Pub, Tower Bridge, the Eye, Waterloo, BlackFriars pub, or the tube to take me to the shopping district of Kensington. And of course it was central enough to be able to see my friends.  

Getting to Paris for the weekend was easy. My French friend had her arm twisted to accompany me and suggested we fly rather than catch the train. The flights on British Air were half the price and only 45mins and as time was limited (as were funds) this was a no brainer. I found a really cute little boutique hotel in Bastille (BLC Design hotel) that was wonderfully free of bed bugs and very close to the nightlife. 

Paris was a dream and I ticked off all the icons from afar through obligation, but most importantly I immersed myself in the cafe and champagne culture and laughed my way for two days straight. Paris was without a doubt the best weekend and highlight of my year. 

Flying home on Etihad was another "chore" I was happy to endure, especially on a flat bed business class seat with all the comforts of a five star hotel! I quickly became THAT girl in business who sculled expensive champagne while watching the poor people walk to towards the end of the plane. I made the most of a short lived experience. 

And now I find myself on the eve of another year with no solid plans for travel. My husband is running the New York Marathon in November so obviously I will have to support him in any way I can (ie, go with him and shop for new shoes). 

My wish to the universe for 2013 is that I find myself in similar circumstances as this year. Extremely thankful to able to spend more time with my family, to be working in an industry that I love, to travel to places I have never been to before and to be utterly enjoying myself. 

Lisa's Guide to Sydney

Below is an extract from an email I recently sent to an American colleague who is coming to Sydney next week. He's hasn't been out of the States for a very long time (edit).

Because of my background in emergency assistance and crisis management, I really thought I was doing the right thing. (ie duty of care and all that corporate policy stuff). 

It turns out I scared the hell out of him, to the point his wife asked him to cancel his tickets. 

*gulp*

**********************************

Dear XXX, 

Great choice! That hotel is right bang in the middle of the city; its small and quite nice, with the major drawcard for it is the world famous Eu De Vie Cocktail Bar downstairs which continues to win awards as best cocktail bar in the world (or maybe just Australia). It also happens to be Johns favourite cocktail bar, so I can imagine he will be hosting a few welcome drinks, thank you drinks, mid week drinks. My favourite is the Espresso martini, but also partial to the teapot cocktails.  And they have food. We will partake in all. 

www.eaudevie.com.au

I’ll book each of the rooms under your names.

NOT TO SCARE YOU:

I do need to tell you a bit about the area – my background in crisis management and emergency assistance has given me great insight into risk assessment and how to avoid a disaster. Darlinghurst is very close to Kings Cross, our red light district and is a place you need to be on your guard. The crime rate in this area is comparatively higher than other places in Sydney, but this is due to the numerous bars and pubs. Avoid wandering out alone late at night and if you do decide to go out and drink, chose smaller wine bars/cafes and restaurants rather than the rowdy clubs and pubs. Also, avoid walking through lanes and alley ways at any time of day. If you decide to go for a jog/run, choose early mornings rather than evenings – you can run down to Botanical Gardens and back from 6am and this would take about an hour and would be a nice way to see the sunrise and the gorgeous Sydney Harbour. Alternatively, hold off on exercising until you return home.

In saying this, we socialise quite a bit and as I’ve said, Eu De vie is a favourite place.  I don’t have any hesitation in recommending you stay there as long as you’re prepared to see some colour. And feather boas! And fishnet tights with 6inch high heels. On men. 

The emergency number in Australia for Police and Ambulances is “000”. Put this in your phone before you arrive. 

FOOD:

Australia is quite fortunate in our cuisine being on the doorstep of Asia. We’re also a very multicultural society so there is everything here from Japanese, Spanish, Africa, Lebanese, Chinese, Malaysian, Italian, Seafood etc etc etc. Our meal servings are smaller than in the US but there is plenty of it. Darlinghurst has some nice little cafes (with real coffee) and restaurants close by and it’s a short walk into Chinatown, the harbour or the city.

Most restaurants will cater to all diets including gluten free, vegetarian, no seafood etc.

TRANSPORT:

Also, it’s quite easy to get a taxi from the airport once you walk out the door, but if you feel more comfortable I can arrange a car for you. Just let me know. Taxi to the city is approx. AUD$40. Private car to city is approx. AUD$70.

There are plenty of taxi’s in Sydney, in fact we have more taxi drivers than residents! You can hail one down from the street at all hours of the day. They work in 12 hour shifts, with change over at 3pm and 3am (these are the only times it will be difficult to catch a taxi).

Buses run from 5am to 1am, as do trains. There is a train station at Kings Cross which is a short walk from your hotel, you should be able to catch a train of a morning, but I wouldn’t recommend that you catch a train after 5pm.

There are a lot of buses, and most are pre-paid travel. (you cant buy a ticket on the bus - don't ask, bain of many a public transport travellers life) If you buy a weekly ticket for AUD$41 this will get you unlimited rides on buses, trains and ferries. They can be bought from newstands or small convenience stores. 

MONEY:

The Australian dollar is quite strong right now with the exchange rate sitting at USD1 = AUD0.97.

Ask if your bank has an international card that you can transfer money onto, this means when you use it in Aus the exchange rate is nil. Alternatively, bring US dollars/travellers cheques which can be exchanged at various agencies in the city – some places don’t charge a commission but I would steer clear of those ones because often it means they are somewhat dodgy.  There are quite a few ATM’s in Sydney, your US bank may even have one (you should be able to check online).

Most places will accept Mastercard and Visa, American Express and Diners Club are less accepted. Most ATM’s will accept Meastro and Cirrus from any bank but may charge a fee (AUD2 to use plus an international conversion fee).

BUDGET:

When giving a daily budget advice, I normally recommend AUD$120 per day per person:

Breakfast/coffee - $20

Lunch - $20

Dinner - $40

Transport - $40

This is a very generous budget. Tipping is not expected in Australia, so no need to budget for this. We do sometimes leave a tip at restaurants, but that’s about it – it’s not expected.

ATTIRE:

I would love to say that Sydney in August is warm and tropical, but I cant. It’s still quite chilly, so be sure to bring warm jackets, jeans etc. Maybe even a scarf. But not a beanie. (you will be mistaken for a Bogan - I will explain in person what this is, I might even be able to point some out). The temperature will be from 48°F to 63°F. Cold but not snowing.

For the workshop, business casual is fine; so pants and a shirt (polo shirt is acceptable), and jacket. Maybe for day one introductions wear a tie (not with polo shirt, this would be very uncool). For going out in the evenings, Sydney is a very casual place, you will get by on casual pants and a shirt. (with jacket because its cold).  Even if you’re planning a fancy restaurant, jeans are acceptable.

AFTER WORK:

The Australian business culture is quite different to the US, you’ll notice that people will start packing up to leave the office at 445pm and out the door at 5pm. Some people may stay later, but the norm is to leave the office by 5pm.

So, as far as sight-seeing goes after dark: Opera House and Harbour Bridge are a must see and can be viewed at any time of day. Other suggestions are:

-          A Ferry trip to Manly

-          Dinner and pub crawl at the Rocks (we have this planned for you on Sunday night of your arrival)

-          Dinner at BBQ King in Chinatown (best duck this side of Asia)

-          Jog around Botanical Gardens (morning, not night)

-          Museum of Contemporary Art (we sponsor this)

-          Opera House / Harbour Bridge

It’s a shame you’re not staying a little longer, I would have suggested the Bondi to Bronte Beach/cliff walk or a day trip to the Blue Mountains. Maybe next time ;)

If there is anything that you particularly want to see or do outside of the workshop, please let me know so I can arrange it for you.

MEDICAL AND EMERGENCIES - 000

Australia is a centre of medical excellence and the healthcare system is of a high standard. Should you have an event requiring emergency assistance, call an ambulance who will take you to the closest hospital. In Darlinghurst there is a hospital on your street, St Vincent’s and there is also another close by, Sydney Hospital. For an emergency, the doctors will treat you and ask you details on your insurance later / so keep a copy of your travel insurance papers handy.

Anything emergency – call me. This is my specialty, and I will arrange whatever is required. My mobile is +61 xxx xxx xxx

See you soon!

Lisa 

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Life in a Hot Tin Bemo - Day two

We decided to venture out after breakfast to look for our Flores supplies, snorkels, sunscreen, razor. A little research led us to the market place in Denpasar, which is a multi story building of everything imaginable. Except snorkels, sunscreen and razors. The putrid smell of rotting durian and other fruits along with the humidity has left me less than smiling. In fact, if you can feel a colour, I feel green. We are met by a woman who wants to be our guide around the market place, she asks when my baby is due and instantly I don't like her. After half an hour, I have a lot of trouble coping in a place like this and ask if we can leave. The fish and other smells reminded me of morning sickness - a place I never want to travel to again! 

We left. 

Walking down a road towards where we believed an air-conditioned mall might be (only for some respite from the heat) we walked past several fabric shops that made me smile. Some of the most gorgeous fabrics were staring at me, begging me to buy them. The colours and quality were astounding, it was like looking into a lolly shop window. Silks, laces, cotton, braid of every colour and texture. Heaven on a walkway. I resist purchasing anything, all too aware of our budget and my lack of employment. I'll return when my budget is much kinder to my dreams. 

Directionless, we hire a bemo driver to take us to the Galleria and the department store we think we might be able to buy snorkels. I desperately wanted to avoid this sterile shopping mall (which is in absolute contrast to the market place), but for the sake of getting some snorkel equipment I am willing to walk past the Cartier and Louis Vuitton and pretentious shoppers. I loathe places like this and was grateful when our bemo driver discussed an alternate diving place to visit. After visiting a Dive company and selecting our expensive gear - their machine could not accept my credit card despite trying several times. Fed up and concerned that I had just been fleeced/scammed of over $1000 I requested we leave and return to our hotel. We did. Checked my bank balance and all was ok. It really was the machine and not a scam. 

After a short break in our villa researching the possibilities of hiring the stuff in Flores, a quick dip in the plunge pool, we then ventured out for another walk to Sanur to discover a decent dive shop just around the corner. Snorkels for Tom were purchased. 

A few pairs of long white pants were found along with a few other essentials. 

A banana daiquiri later - and all was well again with the world.

Housewife in Bali - Day One

Strolling through the duty free there were some last minute must-haves that I hadn't accounted for in our budget but knew they would enhance our trip. Like an underwater digital camera. And a few moleskins for Tom to write his journals. I walked slowly past the Camilla Kaftans on sale because the thought of buying one (or two) and then having it ruined by dragons was too much to consider. Besides, I'd brought along some Akira dresses to impress them with, although I did forget the heels. 

It was very sad leaving Jack and Chloe behind for this trip, I wished that Jack especially could join us but was so proud that he decided to remain back and focus on school. He's being looked after by family friends who are almost like family.

After gulping down a disgusting McDonalds burger, we ran for the final boarding call to our DJ4145 flight as per our normal mode of boarding flights, except this time without our names being called. I now call that Travel-Maturity. 

Our seats were perfect, one row behind premium economy with no one in front to lean back during meal times. Until the supervisor hostess moved her mum into one of the seats, but she was hardly a bother. I sat between my two travelling companions, son and husband and six hours later, frazzled and stressed, I wished I had upgraded myself only to business. Despite the website and Virgin magazine advertising the ability to hire entertainment units onboard, the hostess with the mostess told us this was a privilege reserved for business class passengers. Of which there was one. Not using an entertainment unit. If I’d known about this, I would have brought along more to keep Tom busy during the six hour flight. John managed to escape having to act as dedicated entertainer by commandeering the iPad and playing angry birds. For six hours. A new question had been thrown at me every two and a half minutes, usually it was "how long till we get there". I stopped answering after a couple of hours and started on his education, showing him Lake Eyre and meandering rivers and deltas, coastlines, clouds, and various other weather/geography related topics that he could include in his journal. And we did every crossword and puzzle in the flight magazine - even though they had already been done. 

Disembarking our flight into the tropical earthy smells of Bali - I’d forgotten the stress of the flight and started to get excited about the weeks ahead exploring. 

Normally I would have booked a car to collect us, but this time I decided to be a semi-real backpacker and head for the taxi cue. This was an experience in itself. There is a formal system to getting a taxi in Bali, and then there is an efficient system. We chose the latter and were in an air-conditioned car within a few minutes with a smiling driver named Ketut. Or Wayan. Or Nyoman, or Made. NO worries (sin can can), we were headed to our new temporary home. 

I’d booked us into a private villa in Sanur, the sleepy snory beach of Bali known mostly for its luxurious resorts and wealthy westerners. After I'd made the booking, I read the tripadvisor reports of disappointed guests and dreaded what we would find. What we found was heaven! Waka Maya lived up to its website page and more. Our private little space for a few days was away from the heady noise of mainstream Bali, and far enough away from the expensive resorts not to smell the Chanel. Our little plunge pool provided hours of uninterrupted entertainment and respite from the heat. Our king sized bed has a cave of mosquito net and privacy - Tom is also sharing our room on a mattress on the floor sans mosquito net (but in air conditioning so it doesn't really matter). Our bathroom is an open room with a sunken bath where I plan to spend some time reading and indulging in some bubbles. Of the bath foam variety! 

An afternoon beachside walk reveals a low tide where families fish and bath amongst ancient style fishing boats. The mangroves sadly harbour too much plastic rubbish. Over the years the rubbish seems to have become a major problem that has been ignored. Roadside dumps are scattered every few metres and it makes me so sad. This tourist mecca has been ruined by the tourists, we have brought the need for so much disposable waste without any thought to where it was all going to go. 

Despite coming to Bali regularly for the last 25years, I still get culture shock and find the heat oppressive and needs some time to get used to. The smells of daily offerings with incense and fruit and flowers mix with the smells of fuel and sweat. The noise from cars and motorbikes beeping their horns are the signals I am in Asia, and remind me I have forgotten the Panadol. I am angry with myself for feeling culture shock and not falling gracefully into the stress-free mode I remember. This is my first trip to Bali as an unemployed person, on my arrival card I allowed myself for the first time in my life to tick the "housewife" box under occupation. I should not be stressed but happy not to have any thoughts of home and unfinished projects. I’m now thankful for my forward thinking of booking us into Bali for our Flores trip to acclimatise, as silly as that sounds. 

I sleep at 8pm in my mosquito netted cave. I love Indonesia. 

Finding My Dragon

This year is the Year of the Dragon, Water Dragon to be specific. 

So I have decided to venture into the unknown lands of Komodo Island in search of my very own water dragon. They don't seem pretty, or cuddly. In fact the water dragons of Komodo Island are downright dangerous with saliva that eats at skin, and claws that eat at human hearts. 

I'm a little bit scared so I'm taking my son as protection. He's 9years old. I'm also taking my husband who is much taller and much better protection.

Its a month prior to our departure and already I am beyond excited. To me the adventure starts as soon as you book the tickets. It extends the holiday - I'm thrilled to be researching and planning and booking little treats along the way.

We fly into Bali where we'll have a few days in a luxury private villa on the beach. I justified this by suggesting our son will need to acclimatise to the tropical weather and warm surf conditions. (cough cough). In reality I love a bit of luxury and I know the villas in Flores are less luxurious. So I'll get my dose of clean sheets before I go. 

We then fly into Lubuanbajo and have booked a nice clean hotel as our base. From here, I really don't know. 

I think we will want to explore the volcanoes - unless they're active! The clear blue lakes at the top of the mountains look heavenly. I want to go there. Then a boat trip to Komodo Island to make friends with the natives - Komodo Dragons. 

My 2011 was a horrible year - perhaps I didn't pray to the gods enough. Im not taking chances with 2012 and beyond, so a visit to the water dragons is integral to my well being. (How easy it is to justify a trip!). 

After spending some time in Flores, we then have another week up our sleeves and I am torn between a villa in Ubud (you get the theme right?) or a villa on one of the Gili Islands of Lombok. What to do, what to do......

Until then, I will keep planning and researching, cos its all part of the adventure.