Bali - A Paradise Lost

My friend and colleague, Andrew Stephens is currently in Bali. We both joke about how much we really love Bali  - passionately. Words like Mudsharks, and Kuta Cowboys are often part of the conversation, along with surfing, chilling and how in the world do we get to live and work there!

It's currently Summer and surf season, added that its the long Christmas Holidays and like Andrew, many Australians make Bali their home for a few months. With this comes.... rubbish.

Andrew recently sent me some photos of the beautiful beaches, littered with rubbish - plastic bags, bottles, basic rubbish that doesn't break down and drowns our beaches and waterways, while suffocating the marine life.

It broke my heart. Here is his post and photos. If you do get to Bali and have a few hours spare in your day, please contact Make A Change and volunteer to pick up some trash.


#PickUpAPieceOfTrash - Andrew Stephens

Before heading to Amed for some freediving, I had a few days in Seminyak working. Ducking down to the river mouth near Ku de Ta for a quick surf check revealed the entire beach covered in plastic and junk.

The sight of this trash was absolutely devastating.

Thankfully +Lisa Fryar pointed me to Make A Change Bali to see if any volunteer beach cleanups were available in the next few days and provided some inspiration about how people are dealing with the pollution and rubbish problem here in Indonesia.

Thanks #worldnomads

Daily clean up

Imagine lying under these beach umbrellas!

*sigh*

2016: Eleven Countries in Eleven Months

Phew!

At the end of every year, I like to take some time to reflect on the year that was and start making plans for the year ahead. I make wishes because I'm that kind of girl. Superstitious, hopeful, romantic, positive.

True, it's self indulgent and there are possibly a million better ways to spend my time. Like learning a new language. Clearing out my wardrobe. Selling my books on eBay. Regardless, its what I do and I generally start immediately after Christmas Day getting motivated for major changes and big planning.

My wishes usually involve getting fit, healthy and travelling more.

New Years Eve 2015 was no different - I wished for more travel because I'm an addict. I didn't really have a plan on how it would all play out, but I knew that travel would feature heavily on my year.

As the saying goes, "Be careful what you wish for"!

Eleven countries in Eleven months.


Indonesia -Bali
I just love Bali. Whenever I land it feels like home. I love the earthy smell of incense burning and what the humidity does to my skin. Bali makes me feel alive and there is never a year without a trip to Bali, however short the trip is. I once went to Bali just for the weekend (ok, it was a long weekend, but a weekend nonetheless).

This trip to Bali was a spiritual trip. Clearing my mind for personal reasons and putting my body back into health and fitness mode.

I returned home more healthy, and with clarity of mind to launch my busy year.

*****

USA - Aspen
Whilst Aspen wasn't on my list, I never pass up the opportunity to jump on a plane. When a call came in to help a traveller on the snowfields of Aspen, I already had my Apres boots on.

What a winter wonderland! After a 15hr flight to Dallas, then a couple of hours to Aspen, I sadly only had 16 hours on the ground to watch happy shiny people glide up and down pristine ski fields. I was tempted to buy an hours lift pass, but knew that if I broke my leg before collecting a patient, I would probably lose my job.

So on the side I stood with a cup of hot chocolate in hand.

It's now on my list to visit for longer!

*****

Italy - Rome
My daughter and her partner were travelling to Italy to go to a wedding, and....... what an excuse to visit Rome and spend some time with her! The added bonus was that my dad gifted us an "experience" to spend more time together as a family, so we rented a cute little Airbnb apartment in the foodie heaven of Testaccio where we feasted on all things Italian. Breakfast each day was a chocolate cornetto (a pain au chocolat / chocolate croissant) and a long black. Lunch each day was a pizza slice and dinner was something off the scale in terms of flavours and calories.

Rome surprised me! The Vatican, the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain, The Spanish Steps..... I could go on. Every corner was a "movie set" moment - places I'd studied in high school or seen in movies. The wow factor was omnipresent.

Spending time with some of the most important people in my life in such a stunning city..... priceless!

I returned home to Sydney with an additional 6 kilos.

*****

Croatia - Split, Hvar and Dubrovnik
Oh Croatia! No one told me how beautiful and chilled you are!

The overnight boat from Ancona to Split was an adventure in itself and proved that I'm not a lover of cruises. But sailing into Split as the sun rose behind it was spectacular!

An Airbnb in the walled old city was perfect to drop the bags off to before heading off to explore. I was taken back in time through cobbled streets and quirky cafes, with modern twists on pop-up bars and restaurants.

Four days on Hvar was not nearly enough time, but it was enough to finally breathe and zen-out of my normally hectic lifetsyle. Driving around the island in a red convertible, and sailing around to paradise beaches made me want to rip up my passport and stay forever.

Instead I kept exploring Croatia.

Dubrovnik..... not having a TV means I have no idea about Game of Thrones, of which I was reminded down every alley and square in this truly fun city.

What a fun city, if not a little too touristy.

*****

Bosnia - Mostar and Sarajevo
I still remember the Siege of Sarajevo from the 90's; as a young adult I was acutely aware that on the other side of the world was a tragedy in action.

I'd never have imagined that one day I would be driving through Bosnia as a tourist, taking in the sights, sleeping in bullet peppered buildings and immersing myself into the historic cafes sipping Saleb and smoking shisha.

But I did that!

Walking over Stari Most, the stunning Unesco Heritage site of the Mostar Bridge was surreal. Once again, I was transported back in time in a city I knew too little of but one that I know I will return to and explore further.

The little cafes and restaurants where I drank local wine and ate too much Chevapi..... A few more kilos surely couldn't hurt!

And then there was Sarajevo where I fell in love! The facade of Sarajevo remains to ensure the memory of the Siege is front of mind. Dig deeper and the nightclubs, markets and cafes are full of fun and passionate people.

I still cant believe I smoked shisha! Not quite a convert, but chilling out in a cafe smoking was one of my highlights of Sarajevo.

 

*****

Montenegro - Kotor and a stunning roadtrip
The stunning winding road around the mountains and lakes of Montenegro, is indescribable. If only I could ride a motorbike, this would be the perfect ride. A night in Kotor exploring the walled city and wandering around the lake was peaceful and another step back in time.

It was obvious that money has flowed into Montenegro more than other Eastern European countries, the roads are brand spanking new - a dream to drive on. Beachside cities with expensive cafes overlooking marinas of Russian super yachts. Yep, there was money in Montenegro.

*****

Serbia - Belgrade
I invited myself to a wedding in Belgrade! Because..... I love weddings and I love to travel and I'd never been to Serbia! I'd heard that Belgrade is the nightclub capital of the world, and it didn't disappoint. Days start late and are very long; throughout the city are bars and cafes that kept me well fed and watered.

Being a hippie, I'm open to trying new things. So when an opportunity presented to jump in a car and drive a couple of hours to an old farm and shoot some guns I was only slightly uneasy. Put that rifle, pistol, AK47 and sniper rifle in my hands and well... the hippie in me went out the window. What a rush! I cant say I'll ever pick up a sniper rifle again, but I can say it was my favourite of all the guns. And I surprised myself with how good I was!

My little apartment was close to the Belgrade Fortress, which meant afternoon exercise exploring the stunning grounds of Kalemegdan Park, which was also the location of the wedding I'd invited myself to.

Romantic. Sexy. Fun - thats Belgrade!

 

*****

Hungary - Budapest
I had a choice of returning to Venice or exploring Budapest.... I chose the latter. Its not that I don't love Venice, it's one of my all time favourite cities. Its possibly also the most romantic city in the world, I'd explored it with someone I love and I didn't want to taint that experience by returning. I'm unashamedly romantic like that.

So Budapest it was.

My son was keen to explore the Turkish baths of Budapest and I was happy to oblige. If a teenage boy shows interest in anything other than a video game, you have to take advantage of it!

We hired Segway's (against every bone in my body) and we explored the city on two wheels. Most of the city has been rebuilt after WW2 (as has much of Europe), but it still felt like stepping back in time. We explored the castle (where I came crashing off my Segway and left my dignity behind), and soaked our souls in the Turkish baths of Gellert.

Budapest surprised me. I loved it.

*****

Germany - Berlin and Potsdam
I'm very fortunate to be in a role that affords me travel.

A dear friend had just moved back to Berlin and I was very keen to see her and her family so even though Berlin was for work, I took advantage of having too much annual leave on the books and extended my stay there.

Before I left, so many people had given me the "hype" about the city and I had very high expectations. Sadly, the city just didn't do it for me! Maybe it's been talked up too much, maybe I was exhausted after all the years travel - but Berlin really disappointed me.

My final night in Berlin, I went to the Christmas Markets alone and drank Gluhwein and bought christmas decorations for my team. Sadly, these are the markets that only a month later were the scene of a terrorist attack.

Potsdam on the other hand... wow! I loved this city, the quiet pace, the autumnal forest, the funky apartment I stayed in, my beautiful friend Katrin.

*****

Austria - Vienna
Being in Europe means you're close to everything and my time in Berlin with an extra 10 days meant I could choose to go anywhere at short notice. I'd originally planned to spend the weekend in London but plans changed and I ended up catching a train to Vienna.

A romantic 10 hr trip by train, reading books and taking in the countryside of gorgeous little villages. Basically 10 hours of idleness that is pure luxury in the fast pace of my life.

Austria is the home place of Sound of Music, and Vienna is the home of Mozart. What's not to love about that?

Beautiful buildings and very clean streets hide the of nastiness of humanity. I was surprised at the amount of homeless people, hidden debris that didn't quite fit in with the city. I was attacked at 8am on a Saturday morning in Vienna, and by midday I had booked myself to the next city the following day.

*****

Czech - Prague
25 years ago I was offered a role in Prague, and as a young single mum I thought this was my chance. Unfortunately the day before we were due to fly out, the job was retracted and my trip was cancelled, but my yearning to go had never wained.

25 years later, I arrived by train into a wintery Prague without any expectations but to explore.

Travelling solo in a city like Prague is pure heaven! Being winter, it was freezing - and I loved it! I rugged up with boots, a thick cape and a mink hat and explored my little heart out.

Once again I drank Gluhwein in the square, I ate goulash and pretzels and meandered for hours through alleyways and hidden squares. Locals were so friendly, I truly fell in love.

I stayed in a little hotel near Charles Bridge which was so close to everything.

It will not be another 25 years before I explore Prague again!

*****

So for 2017...... I have no idea what to wish for, but I do know more travel is in my sights! Twelve for twelve? 

I won the Sky Lottery!

Travel addicts know exactly what its like to plan a trip. So many considerations; manage a budget, get time off time (how much time, when is a good time), location, style of holiday, what to wear, how to pack.... 

I'm no different! For the last thirty years, I've ben an avid traveller - clocking up thousands of kilometres every year just to get to my destination. Some of my favourite trips have been last minute ones with little planning, and some of the most memorable have been where I was able to tack on a few days to a business trip. 

I was fortunate to land a job many many years ago that afforded me the opportunity to travel for work which meant that not only did I clock up miles (and points), I rarely had to pay for my flights. But despite it being travel for business, I was never permitted to travel in business class (as per company policy), until I joined my current company. 

For the past four years, I have been flying in business class (mostly) for my trips, of which there have been many! Business class, let me tell you - is special! There is a comfy lounge, loads of leg room, seats that become flatbeds, champagne, and little toiletry bags of nice things. And more champagne. Did I mention champagne?

My most recent trip, I won the sky lottery. I was upgraded to a FIRST CLASS apartment on Etihad Airways - just like another redhead Australian girl, Nicole Kidman. 

Flying from Sydney to Berlin meant that my first class experience was of the long haul variety, 14hrs to Abu Dhabi, a couple of hours in the First Class Lounge, then another 8hrs to my destination. And return! For those 2 x 27hrs worth of travel - I was the ultimate princess rockstar sans attitude. Or maybe with just a little attitude, and a little bit of boast posting on social media. But just a little.

Flying Business and First Class on Etihad begins before you even arrive at the airport because it includes a chauffeur limousine to drive you to the airport where the check in process is red carpet all the way. I seriously regretted not buying a new outfit for the experience. 

I enjoyed a glass or two of Bollinger in the Etihad Lounge in Sydney Airport pre flight, and once boarded and arrived at my seat (1A), a few more glass before take off. I was personally introduced to my chef (Darryl) and my lovely hostess (Amy) who continued to look after me and bring me amazing treats throughout the flight. 

 

But let me tell you about my little space. Oh my! 1A was everything I thought it would be. A spacious little cabin with a wide beige leather chair the reclines completely to a flatbed. The space was so generous that I couldn't even stretch my legs to reach the other side. Admittedly I don't have the longest legs in the world, but you get the visual. 

I watched movies on the big screen in my apartment. I drank more champagne and ate al la carte, the best Wagyu Steak I've ever had the pleasure of putting in my mouth. 

I even had a shower - at 30,000 feet! Yes, I stood in the bathroom of the A380, naked (admittedly consumed with anxiety that if we hit turbulence I would need to race back to my seat in the nude!) and I used every product in my First Class toiletries kit! (sorry, no photos of the shower for very good reason)

When I returned from my shower, I found a lovely bed waiting for me...... to sleep for a full eight hours! My neighbour snored a little, but the Bose headphones soon fixed that. 

On arrival in Abu Dhabi, we disembarked on the tarmac - where a private car awaited my arrival to drive me to the terminal LIKE A ROCKSTAR! 

The rest of the journey was pretty much the same. Customer service to rival none, comfort and luxury that would make the Queen feel at home and and experience I may never get to repeat. I made the most of my First Class indulgence, and while I may have come across at times as a little smug - it was pure excitement. 

***Not a sponsored post***

Romance on the Canals

Ah Venice! You beautiful romantic city of canals and cannoli.

When opportunity strikes, I jump at the chance to head off to a new city to explore and discover the great delights of another culture. A business trip is no different.

Flying on Emirates A380 in Business Class is just the tip of the princess iceberg, starting with Moét and Veuve on virtual tap and eating my way across the globe for 27hrs.

#traveltip Number 1 - Wear expandable clothing and eat nothing for a week prior to flying

On arrival into Marco Polo airport, we had the option to catch a public ferry or pay a few extra hundred euros and live like George Clooney in a highly polished wooden speedboat. We didn't feel like George Clooney and jetlag hand't yet kicked in so we caught the public ferry for a couple of Euros.

We got in on a Saturday afternoon after 27hrs of travel, an early night was on the agenda for our first night. As we were staying at the Hilton Molino Stucky, we took advantage of the rooftop bar to enjoy the sunset, beer and cocktails before throwing our exhausted selves into our room.

The Hilton is a ferry ride to the main island, located on Giudecca which only added to the romance of Venice.


#traveltip Number 2 - Embrace your jetlag. 

Jetlag means waking at ridiculous times, which is a blessing when you're in a city with a zillion tourists who all want to see the same sights. We ventured across to San Marco Square extremely early (6am), before everyone else woke up. Having the place to ourselves meant we could wander aimlessly in relative peace, exploring the beauty of Basillica and surrounds. Sadly there are limited coffee options at that hour, but the wait for our first Italian coffee was worth it!


#traveltip Number 3: Visit Venice in Aqua Alto season. 

Despite everything you read in Lonely Planet, Rough Guides and every other travel book/blog on the planet - don't listen to them. 

The floods were awesome! 

I was confused at first with sightings of the scaffolded walkways. I thought there was a power-broking construction project happening all over the island. I soon discovered these were walkways to avoid the high waters. Its starts of as a few mils of water and after a few hours you're breaststroking your way to an Aperol Spritz. 

if you're packing light (like I do), and can't fit your Hunter Gumboots in your luggage, don't fret. Every corner sells disposable bright orange plastic covers for your shoes. Italy is the country of "style" - which is not quite how I'd describe the covers. I refused to wear them and sadly my beautiful boots got ruined. But I remained semi stylish while I ruined them, and on the plus side it meant I didn't have to pack them to return to Aus. 

#traveltip Number 4: Aperol Spritz and tasty little morsels

I get that I'm a late adopter of the trends. Always have been. But my god, the discovery of the Spritz was nothing short of winning the lotto! Every glass came with a bowl of potato chips and when we went slightly more fancy, a bowl of olives! 

Its fairly easy to wonder and stumble across something truly amazing in Venice. One of my favourites was a a quite little cafe bar called Al Parlamento - unassuming, affordable and amazing! There were a few others we found by accident, which is the way to go in Venice. 

Don't plan. Wander. 

#traveltip Number 5: Bring on the romance. 

The most beautiful aspect of Venice is that there are no cars. No cars means no traffic noise and no streetlights. Just cute little street lights lighting the alley ways and canals and a gentle ambience to guide you to little wine bars. 

If you really have to jump in a gondola, do so. For me they seemed constructed and awkward and overpriced so we stuck to walking and getting lost in little alleyways. 


A week in Venice was enough of an entree to make we want to return to Italy. 

#traveltip Number 6: Holiday hangover is best cured with arranging another holiday. 

I'm now planning our Eastern Europe holiday for 2016.... Watch this space

My Happy Ending Massage

A love of many western travellers is to head off to a tropical location and soak up the humidity, sandy beaches, cocktails and all round Zen-ness. 

Sometimes beers beside the pool. Or sand between the toes. 

Sometimes pampering. 

Sometimes more than just pampering, like a massage with a little bit extra. 

So this is what happened to a friend of a friend of mine. Or me. Actually it was me. This happened to me. 

After leaving a job that I really loved, I decided to head off to Cambodia and stop feeling sorry for myself. I arrived in Phnom Penh and joined a house building group in a rural village. 

Our little group built 40 amazing little houses in one week! It was hard work in searing heat, and for someone who had never held a hammer before, physically exhausting. I had blisters on blisters and in places I don't care to mention. 

After a week of banging out a few houses, I decided to head into a local massage parlour and get me some pampering. Manicure, pedicure and a full body massage for $12. Bargain. 

Only, I got more than I bargained for. 

Feet and hands done, I was ushered into a quiet cool dark room with a water feature and statue of Buddha. Some kind of water music was playing. 

Naked, lying on my tummy on the bed, I didn't see my masseur enter and my only visual of him was through the little face-hole in my bed. He had six toes on each foot. Possibly he had six fingers on each hand as well. 

He was good. Strong hands needling out all those builders knots. My back turned to jelly, so he moved down to my legs. Starting off gently at my ankles, he worked his way up the backs of my thighs - quite "up" and he wasn't slowing down. I wasn't quite sure where he intended to stop and it was bordering on awkward so I shifted a little on the table and he moved to the next leg. Moving pretty close to my lady parts I shifted again and he returned to my neck and back. 

When he got to the knots in my lower back I felt something on my arm as he pressed against me. He worked his way pressing against my arm and the "something" got harder and harder. 

A sole female, completely naked on the table in a massage place where English was limited, I was pretty vulnerable. 

A polite "No thank you" worked it's magic and he retreated to the door only to have the Madame of the parlour come in and ask me to leave. 

Thankfully I live to tell the tale that my happy ending wasn't a "happy ending" 

Middle Aged Hippies in Cambodge

I started the year with a few really good intentions. Like not drinking alcohol, not eating meat, not brushing my hair. So far I have found varying degrees of success in each. 

I also started the year looking forward to a trip to Cambodia in February to build houses for charity and even though this was changed last minute, we had flights booked and were still very keen to go. 

We decided to call our trip - "The Hippy Trip", because we're both middle aged hippies on the inside. This also meant a fair degree of backpacking (yes, we bought a backpack), and using the cheapest transport options available to us. All of our accommodation was booked as we went along through Agoda using last minute specials and crossing our fingers we'd find a decent bargain! 

I'd won a free trip to Singapore flying Scoot Airlines through a Facebook competition via Nova 96. A little nervous about flying a budget airline, I was extremely surprised - in a nice way! The seats were comfy and the customer service  was outstanding! We were fed and watered throughout the flight and arrived on time into Singers. 

Singapore didn't disappoint. We stayed a few nights with my gorgeous friend and her family and laughed ourselves silly. She lives very central to everything; a quick stroll down Orchard Rd, a morning coffee in Botanical Gardens while my husband jogged, and we also enjoyed fantastic views on the rooftop before dining in the Supertrees at Indochine. Half an hour at Brix was more than enough for me, an expat bar under the Hyatt where men go to pick up high class hookers. Enough said. 

Kylie, John and I on the rooftop of Indochine, SuperTrees!

This is not at Brix. 

Jetstar flew us to Phnom Penh, and at $55 per person we were definitely succeeding backpacking. 

This was my third trip to Cambodia and my husbands first, so we decided to acclimatise for a few days in a cute little boutique hotel overlooking the Mekong, The Quay! Its one of my all time favourites, and even thought the upkeep is starting to slide a little, I still really love it there. John was excited to explore and we wove our way through the streets to bookstores, restaurants, cafes before climbing onto tuk-tuks to visit the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng Prison. 

Our concierge booked us onto a bus for Siem Reap, and thinking we might like comfort, had booked the "private minibus". 8 hours of hell, sitting in the last seat in a cramped mini bus over potholes and dodging large trucks, I truly wished we'd gone more budget and spent a third on the public bus. Lesson learnt....

The last time I was in Siem Reap I was only one of a handful of tourists, and being there in February was more of a culture shock. Busloads of noisy and disrespectful tourists ruined some of the nicer temples - selfies in front of ancient monuments were their priority. A Facebook profile pic. A pose in high heels. Many tour leaders held megaphones and yelled at their "charges" as they scrambled over ruins and rubbed oily hands over bas relief sculptures. I had to walk away for fear that my memories of such amazing temples be tainted. 

The 4am wake up call to watch the sunrise over Angkor Watt was hardly worth the effort, however I did manage to run into a lovely acquaintance, Johanna of Traveleater as we both tried to escape the noise! The world truly is a very small place. 

I also spent some time in the Royal Angkor Hospital feeling sick and sorry for myself. I left with a goodie bag of medication to see me through the remainder of my trip. (I can highly recommend the hospital -  clean, knowledgable and very efficient, but not for the backpacker budget). 

Our time at Siem Reap had come to an end and we caught the public bus to Battambang. Well worth the $6!

Battambang - what a place! We found a cute little villa to rest in that was not quite backpack style, but we could keep our backpack there. The Sanctuary Villa was fantastic respite from the dry and dusty heat, with a swimming pool and really lovely gardens.

On arrival, we'd met a young polite driver - Darra - who we hired for a full day to take us to some remote temples. Totally inspiring, Darra is putting himself through university to do a business degree as well as paying for his sister to do her university degree in hospitality. He is also supporting his grandmother. 

Climbing the three hundred stairs to Watt Banan, being fanned (literally) by an 8yr old was a highlight, as was going for a fast and furious ride on the Bamboo Train! The other higlights of Battambang were discovering and old friend Daisy at Jaan Bai, run by the amazing team of Cambodian Childrens Trust and spending a night watching the Phare Circus! 

We also spent some time at the Bat Caves, and wandering the streets of my new favourite little town. 

Putting together our little carriage of the Bamboo Train

Back in Phnom Penh, we booked ourselves smack bang into the red light district - something the reviews on Agoda don't tell you about! Le Cube was really quite nice, and we were upgraded to an executive suite, complete with golden leather headboard and round bed....... I shudder to think of the activity that goes on there. 

Our final days in Phnom Penh were spent eating at the FCC, walking through the markets, having afternoon tea at Friends and generally just enjoying being on the streets of this busy little city. 

There are so many things I truly love about Cambodia and each time I return I find more to love. We may not have built our houses this time, but we had an amazing hippy time being backpackers. 

Adventures of a Rockstar!

Up front, I know I'm not a rockstar. Never was, and most likely never will be. But, for a fleeting moment that lasted a weekend, I lived the rockstar life and I am hooked!

I didn't set out to have a rockstar weekend, it's just not something this middle-aged mother of three would do. All I wanted was a weekend away with my husband to celebrate a significant wedding anniversary. The basic criteria was relaxing, fun, not too far away and slightly exotic (aka tropical). There is only one place that fits the bill.....

Bali, Island of the Gods and playground for Aussies. 

All my husband knew was that we were going away for an extended weekend and I was doing the packing. He actually thought we were headed to New Zealand to ski and snowboard. How wrong he was! He discovered our destination on check-in to the business class counter at Garuda.

Rockstars only fly business class because they get to chill in the lounge at 7am and drink champagne, and then have it on tap the entire flight.

The Garuda A330 did not disappoint. The food, the service, the little pamper packs with L'Occitane products, the entertainment unit and the very comfy flatbeds were all very rockstar!

Kath n Kel go to Bali

On arrival we were met by Ketut to drive us to the W Retreat and Spa Bali in the luxury of an aircon'd BMW X5. The driveway to the hotel was a lush indicator on how our weekend was going to turn out - exotic, fun, fancy. When the concierge opened the car door to welcome us, he even knew our names!

Our room wasn't ready on our arrival so fresh cocktails were waiting for us by one of the gazillion "chill out zones" and after downing some absinthe and other alcoholic liquid in a teapot, we ventured up to our room that would be our rockstar home for 3 nights.

The W had thought of everything! Fun posters and gemstones adorned the massive king size bed wishing us a "Happy Anniversary" and more cocktails were waiting for us to enjoy the view from our ocean balcony. 

Everything at the W is different. It's fun and funky and innovative. Right down to the entrance, the fun bathrooms, the day beds, and the carpets in the elevators. Every detail was well thought out, and from the staff it all seemed effortless.

10 years Wedding Anniversary, 20 years together! Achievement! 

Apart from our massive celebration of being together for 20years, and married for 10 (I love a ceremony!), it was also my birthday. Those of you who know me, also know I LOVE my birthday!

The W also knew (probably by looking at my passport on check-in), and they made sure my day was ultra rockstar. Champagne breakfast with cake, an extra dusting of diamond scrub during my 3 hour massage and facial (yes I came out sparkling), champagne and cake again for lunch, and a beautifully hand-written card under the door to wish me well as my vintage improved!

I'm sure they knew my name was Lisa. 

One of our highlights was visiting our lovely friend Katie who is celebrating 1 year of opening the most amazing coffee shop in Seminyak! For Aussies who are discerning (and snobby) about their coffee, head over to Revolver Espresso and say hi to Katie and her band of great Baristas!

On recommendation from another friend living in Bali, we ate at Teatro Gastroteque . I am very happy to pass on this recommendation with the disclaimer that you will come out much heavier than you went in. We chose the 5 course degustation (which comes with a course in between each course...), the food was well timed, fresh and totally outstanding! The wine menu was limited and expensive, but all wine in Bali is not cheap. 

Vin+ is a new wine bar that we tested and loved. Small share plates and tapas and also a great selection of cocktails and wines. 

And talking about food and wine and being an all round rockstar ....my birthday lunch was spent in a cage at Starfish Bloo at the W, where champagne flowed and the food was to die for! (literally, the chilli dish is very hot)

Being pampered is one of those obligatory past times of the rockstar; oxygen therapy, daily massages, facials, pedicures, manicures and a fair bit of "idle time" (spending an entire day on a day bed by the pool reading books and sipping g&t's and beer).

The day spa at the W (Away) got to know me by first name.

We flew home Sunday night on business class Garuda in an extremely comfortable flatbed seat which allowed for a great night sleep before having to go straight to work on Monday!

My rockstar-ness challenge for future special occasions is to do a world tour of the W hotels.

W Maldives anyone?

A lifetime ban in New Caledonia......

It was one of those week long holidays that couldn't possibly have been any worse. 

My very best friend Kylie and I decided to take a break from our respective families and find an exotic location to "chill" for a week. Both having young children, we didn't want it to be too far away, but we did want it to be a slight adventure. As in - limited English. 

Noumea was the perfect choice. A South Pacific Island only a few hours flight from Sydney where we could practice our school girl French. 

On arrival at the airport, we were confused by the different coloured cards to complete which saw us ending up at the back of the queue for more than an hour. Every time we presented a card, we were told we needed to complete a different colour one... until we came full circle with the colour we had completed in the first place. 

My luggage was nowhere to be seen, and hand gesturing to the airport staff that my "black" bag was missing, they laughed. Every bag was a "black" bag they said, and it took another hour to locate said "black" bag... behind the counter. Exactly where we were standing only an hour earlier asking if anyone had seen my "black" bag! 

After a few hours in sweaty tropical heat, we eventually made our way through immigration to learn that our pre-arranged transport had left us stranded - right in the middle of tropical-nowhere. So we hired a taxi, a very expensive one!

But we didn't care. We were on a break and this all added to the adventure of our week long freedom. 

We arrived at our hotel for check in slightly exhausted, but still laughing only to discover that our reservation was not confirmed and we didn't have a room. The hotel could not possibly accommodate us at such short notice! The check in clerk was adamant that we would not be sleeping there at all for the week, and we would need to find alternate accomodation. Until Kylie pulled out the printed confirmation slip with our details. We were promptly shown to our room and then later realised we were one of very few guests due to extensive renovations. Noisy ones. 

The large hotel pool provided respite from the heat, and an opportunity to burn our lily white complexions completely red. 

The small cafe served ridiculously expensive chicken sandwiches (on white Tip Top bread with manky lettuce) at a cost of AUD30 and was served by a rude waiter who thought throwing a plate at us was within his remit. We 'thanked him" using swear words. 

We ventured out for a walk along the promenade and into the touristy heaven of beach front souvenir shops. Only to learn that we probably couldn't afford any of the tiny plastic take-home junky pieces. Our children would not know the joy of owning a snow dome of Isle de Pine, or a plastic surfboard keyring. 

Everywhere, the locals scowled at our attempts to talk in school-girl French, many of the well dressed women tut-tutting and turning their backs to ignore us. It made us try even harder to impress them resulting in uncontrollable giggles. 

On more than one occasion, we returned to our room and lay on our beds and laughed at how much the ridiculous week was costing us - yet we were having so much fun. We laughed at each other laughing (Kylie does the silent airless laugh, and I tend to snort and cry), rolling around on the beds until our mouths hurt and our ribs cracked. 

I dont remember too many more details of the Noumea adventure, except that there is probably a poster of each of us in the arrival lounge - it is very likely that we are not be permitted entry to this expensive and arrogant paradise ever again. 

And thats ok. 

Me + Kylie

This was taken years before the Noumea adventure - probably in Bali. 

My Year of Travel 2012

I met my nephews girlfriend on Christmas Day, a really sweet little thing with a travel wish-list I could relate to. Although, it did surprise me that someone with such a passion for getting out there, has never travelled, but her opportunities have been limited for various reasons and now she is desperate to explore the world. She has thought about it over the past year and is now planning on becoming an air hostess to kick her dreams off. I listened to her plans with absolute envy. She's young enough and pretty enough and smart enough to get her wish. Free travel, and a lot of it!

Thats not to say I didn't clock up enough travel points of my own this year. My carbon footprint was shameful, and my wish to explore new places was met.

The beginning of the year I spent at home in Sydney wishing our summer wasn't being destroyed by rain and cold winds. The Year of the Dragon had started poorly, with a bland New years Eve and no solid plans to escape. 

So, we booked a month in Indonesia to find some sun and dragons. 

Landing in Bali always feels like home to me, I love the mixed smell of incense with motorbike fuel along with the sweaty heat and humidity. I also happen to love the food and the people and the dances and the sounds and the... everything! We spent a few days in a little Balinese villa I found on www.agoda.com.au which was perfect to acclimatise to the humidity and cocktails before flying off to Flores where we found a traditional boat to float us around the archipelago in search of Komodo Dragons. And dragons we found. Nothing quite prepares you for the grotesqueness of the Komodo Dragon, the grandness of the beast, the size of the toxic claws that could kill with one scratch, or the stench that follows it after feasting on a deer. They move faster than I can. That scared me and thankfully I wasn't eaten. 

Swimming and snorkelling off our boat with seahorse and manta rays kept us busy during the days, while lazing on the outdoor deck under the stars at night meant heavenly sleep. We woke to watch the sun rise over prehistoric jagged mountains and welcomed home the returning fisherman each morning. Labuan Bajo hosted some amazing restaurants with wonderful food. Hot chilli crab and chicken satays were drowned with Bintang and Tiger beer. The mountains behind the town were home to gorgeous bush walks and waterfalls where we played for hours, jumping off rocks and swimming in pristine waters. Note to self and others: do not wear white trekking pants when walking through these parts, you will inevitably slide down a portion of the mountain. Mud sticks. 

I woke to my first Muslim "call to prayer" one morning while we were moored off the tiny village of Komodo. An experience I wasn't expecting at that time of the morning, but was happy to have just the same. 

The people of Flores are extremely hospitable , a very welcoming group who take the time to talk and are genuinely interested in making sure you have a great experience. Some say this is Bali 20 years ago. I don't think so, its very different to Bali (and yes, I was there 20 years ago and almost every year since). Flores has its own flavour and is now added to my "favourites" list of places to hang out for a while. 

Before heading home we returned again to Bali and headed north to Pemuteran where we stayed for a few days contemplating never returning to Australia again. The black sands where turtles came for respite and the reefs beyond where we were stranded with pods of dolphins and more gorgeous coral sea life. We then drove our little jeep back towards Ubud before finally coming home. Long faced and slightly suntanned. (OK - more than suntanned, the skin cancer council had a lot to say about my pinkened and peeling back on my return!). 

Melbourne was my friend a couple of times for various short trips over the year. I adore this city; the culture is classy, the people are friendly and the food is amazing. And the fashion...... oh if only I were a size zero. 

The middle of my year was spent heads down and working hard and then I landed a dream position, in the travel industry! 

My first assignment was to head to London for a few weeks and try as I might to hide my excitement, I failed. I just love London, and with a few friends living there it meant the trip could be maximised for work AND play! I also decided to hang out in Paris for the weekend, something very strange as an Australian to be able to say (and I have said this every day since!)

Arriving in London at the end of October at 7am and it was pitch black. No sign of sunlight and that was exactly how it should've been. We stayed in Southwark at the Novotel which was surprisingly nice and spacious. Southwark was central to everything and the hotel only a 5 min walk to wherever I needed to be. Like the office of course, or Borough Markets or Browns Pub, Tower Bridge, the Eye, Waterloo, BlackFriars pub, or the tube to take me to the shopping district of Kensington. And of course it was central enough to be able to see my friends.  

Getting to Paris for the weekend was easy. My French friend had her arm twisted to accompany me and suggested we fly rather than catch the train. The flights on British Air were half the price and only 45mins and as time was limited (as were funds) this was a no brainer. I found a really cute little boutique hotel in Bastille (BLC Design hotel) that was wonderfully free of bed bugs and very close to the nightlife. 

Paris was a dream and I ticked off all the icons from afar through obligation, but most importantly I immersed myself in the cafe and champagne culture and laughed my way for two days straight. Paris was without a doubt the best weekend and highlight of my year. 

Flying home on Etihad was another "chore" I was happy to endure, especially on a flat bed business class seat with all the comforts of a five star hotel! I quickly became THAT girl in business who sculled expensive champagne while watching the poor people walk to towards the end of the plane. I made the most of a short lived experience. 

And now I find myself on the eve of another year with no solid plans for travel. My husband is running the New York Marathon in November so obviously I will have to support him in any way I can (ie, go with him and shop for new shoes). 

My wish to the universe for 2013 is that I find myself in similar circumstances as this year. Extremely thankful to able to spend more time with my family, to be working in an industry that I love, to travel to places I have never been to before and to be utterly enjoying myself. 

Lisa's Guide to Sydney

Below is an extract from an email I recently sent to an American colleague who is coming to Sydney next week. He's hasn't been out of the States for a very long time (edit).

Because of my background in emergency assistance and crisis management, I really thought I was doing the right thing. (ie duty of care and all that corporate policy stuff). 

It turns out I scared the hell out of him, to the point his wife asked him to cancel his tickets. 

*gulp*

**********************************

Dear XXX, 

Great choice! That hotel is right bang in the middle of the city; its small and quite nice, with the major drawcard for it is the world famous Eu De Vie Cocktail Bar downstairs which continues to win awards as best cocktail bar in the world (or maybe just Australia). It also happens to be Johns favourite cocktail bar, so I can imagine he will be hosting a few welcome drinks, thank you drinks, mid week drinks. My favourite is the Espresso martini, but also partial to the teapot cocktails.  And they have food. We will partake in all. 

www.eaudevie.com.au

I’ll book each of the rooms under your names.

NOT TO SCARE YOU:

I do need to tell you a bit about the area – my background in crisis management and emergency assistance has given me great insight into risk assessment and how to avoid a disaster. Darlinghurst is very close to Kings Cross, our red light district and is a place you need to be on your guard. The crime rate in this area is comparatively higher than other places in Sydney, but this is due to the numerous bars and pubs. Avoid wandering out alone late at night and if you do decide to go out and drink, chose smaller wine bars/cafes and restaurants rather than the rowdy clubs and pubs. Also, avoid walking through lanes and alley ways at any time of day. If you decide to go for a jog/run, choose early mornings rather than evenings – you can run down to Botanical Gardens and back from 6am and this would take about an hour and would be a nice way to see the sunrise and the gorgeous Sydney Harbour. Alternatively, hold off on exercising until you return home.

In saying this, we socialise quite a bit and as I’ve said, Eu De vie is a favourite place.  I don’t have any hesitation in recommending you stay there as long as you’re prepared to see some colour. And feather boas! And fishnet tights with 6inch high heels. On men. 

The emergency number in Australia for Police and Ambulances is “000”. Put this in your phone before you arrive. 

FOOD:

Australia is quite fortunate in our cuisine being on the doorstep of Asia. We’re also a very multicultural society so there is everything here from Japanese, Spanish, Africa, Lebanese, Chinese, Malaysian, Italian, Seafood etc etc etc. Our meal servings are smaller than in the US but there is plenty of it. Darlinghurst has some nice little cafes (with real coffee) and restaurants close by and it’s a short walk into Chinatown, the harbour or the city.

Most restaurants will cater to all diets including gluten free, vegetarian, no seafood etc.

TRANSPORT:

Also, it’s quite easy to get a taxi from the airport once you walk out the door, but if you feel more comfortable I can arrange a car for you. Just let me know. Taxi to the city is approx. AUD$40. Private car to city is approx. AUD$70.

There are plenty of taxi’s in Sydney, in fact we have more taxi drivers than residents! You can hail one down from the street at all hours of the day. They work in 12 hour shifts, with change over at 3pm and 3am (these are the only times it will be difficult to catch a taxi).

Buses run from 5am to 1am, as do trains. There is a train station at Kings Cross which is a short walk from your hotel, you should be able to catch a train of a morning, but I wouldn’t recommend that you catch a train after 5pm.

There are a lot of buses, and most are pre-paid travel. (you cant buy a ticket on the bus - don't ask, bain of many a public transport travellers life) If you buy a weekly ticket for AUD$41 this will get you unlimited rides on buses, trains and ferries. They can be bought from newstands or small convenience stores. 

MONEY:

The Australian dollar is quite strong right now with the exchange rate sitting at USD1 = AUD0.97.

Ask if your bank has an international card that you can transfer money onto, this means when you use it in Aus the exchange rate is nil. Alternatively, bring US dollars/travellers cheques which can be exchanged at various agencies in the city – some places don’t charge a commission but I would steer clear of those ones because often it means they are somewhat dodgy.  There are quite a few ATM’s in Sydney, your US bank may even have one (you should be able to check online).

Most places will accept Mastercard and Visa, American Express and Diners Club are less accepted. Most ATM’s will accept Meastro and Cirrus from any bank but may charge a fee (AUD2 to use plus an international conversion fee).

BUDGET:

When giving a daily budget advice, I normally recommend AUD$120 per day per person:

Breakfast/coffee - $20

Lunch - $20

Dinner - $40

Transport - $40

This is a very generous budget. Tipping is not expected in Australia, so no need to budget for this. We do sometimes leave a tip at restaurants, but that’s about it – it’s not expected.

ATTIRE:

I would love to say that Sydney in August is warm and tropical, but I cant. It’s still quite chilly, so be sure to bring warm jackets, jeans etc. Maybe even a scarf. But not a beanie. (you will be mistaken for a Bogan - I will explain in person what this is, I might even be able to point some out). The temperature will be from 48°F to 63°F. Cold but not snowing.

For the workshop, business casual is fine; so pants and a shirt (polo shirt is acceptable), and jacket. Maybe for day one introductions wear a tie (not with polo shirt, this would be very uncool). For going out in the evenings, Sydney is a very casual place, you will get by on casual pants and a shirt. (with jacket because its cold).  Even if you’re planning a fancy restaurant, jeans are acceptable.

AFTER WORK:

The Australian business culture is quite different to the US, you’ll notice that people will start packing up to leave the office at 445pm and out the door at 5pm. Some people may stay later, but the norm is to leave the office by 5pm.

So, as far as sight-seeing goes after dark: Opera House and Harbour Bridge are a must see and can be viewed at any time of day. Other suggestions are:

-          A Ferry trip to Manly

-          Dinner and pub crawl at the Rocks (we have this planned for you on Sunday night of your arrival)

-          Dinner at BBQ King in Chinatown (best duck this side of Asia)

-          Jog around Botanical Gardens (morning, not night)

-          Museum of Contemporary Art (we sponsor this)

-          Opera House / Harbour Bridge

It’s a shame you’re not staying a little longer, I would have suggested the Bondi to Bronte Beach/cliff walk or a day trip to the Blue Mountains. Maybe next time ;)

If there is anything that you particularly want to see or do outside of the workshop, please let me know so I can arrange it for you.

MEDICAL AND EMERGENCIES - 000

Australia is a centre of medical excellence and the healthcare system is of a high standard. Should you have an event requiring emergency assistance, call an ambulance who will take you to the closest hospital. In Darlinghurst there is a hospital on your street, St Vincent’s and there is also another close by, Sydney Hospital. For an emergency, the doctors will treat you and ask you details on your insurance later / so keep a copy of your travel insurance papers handy.

Anything emergency – call me. This is my specialty, and I will arrange whatever is required. My mobile is +61 xxx xxx xxx

See you soon!

Lisa 

************************